OUR FUN EXPLORATIONS IN THE BIG CITY...
To immerse oneself in NYC, it's best to explore. Walking, biking, driving, and subwaying. There is an infinite amount of culture and art to see, and plenty more to do. We resolved to do or see at least one "new" NY thing every couple weeks, which has worked out perfectly for developing a kinder, more amorous (and equally deferential) relationship with the city. Here are some of our recommendations for a dose of "awestruckness" and overall contentedness with habitat.
CIRCLE LINE CRUISE, All Around Manhattan
This is something tourists do. But I really think only people who live in New York will truly appreciate it. The 3 hour cruise takes you all around the island of Manhattan, with a guide who tells you little tidbits of everything ranging from history and architecture, to stardom and working conditions. You travel along the Hudson, loop around into the East River and then down the narrow Harlem River, seeing a bit of all the 5 boroughs and much more. Definitely worth the money.
FIVE POINTZ GRAFFITI YARD, Long Island City
If you want to see some often street art, you can go to Queen's mecca of graffiti artists. A tour around the building will give you a wide scope of ranging color and images that you simply cannot find anywhere else. It's sanctioned and protected graffiti, which means it's always there, and you can always find new artists trying to wrestle their way onto the walls. Combine the trip with a visit to PS1, the modern art museum across the street.
SLEEP NO MORE, Chelsea
If there's any Broadway "show" that's worth the big bucks....this is it. You don't sit and watch, you interact in this bizarre and extremely enticing version of Macbeth, which takes place in the mysterious McKittrick hotel. First you are shuttled into an anachronistic "speak easy" teeming with 20's accents, absinthe and smoke. Next, you are directed to wear a mask, separated from your group, and led through a 5-story hotel with hundreds of rooms. From there, it's three hours of exploration. Opening drawers, following actors, reading old manuscripts. You could do this 50 times and never have the same experience twice. Lots of nudity is also a plus.
STORM KING ART CENTER, Cornwall-on-Hudson, NY
Hudson River Valley has an amazing 500-acre sculpture park with incredibly designed iron, metal, wood, stone sculptures, scattered on rolling hills and surrounded by cherry blossoms. The place is called STORM KING because the tallest mountain there was considered the foreteller of a storm. Andy Goldsworthy has a fieldstone garden wall that weaves through the trees and disappears into the lake. There is a picket fence with mirror that reflects the leaves and trees around, a splendid optical illusion. Well worth the 1.5 hour drive from NYC, you can spend 4-5 hours walking around there. Bring food and wine and try to get good weather. Don't forget your camera.
BROOKLYN BRIDGE (at night), East river
So yes, some of us walk the Brooklyn Bridge just to make our commute into Manhattan a little bit more, well, exciting. The bridge is really fascinating. It's one of the oldest suspension bridges and opened in 1883! The cables are like webs, the shape like a jutting edifice, with towers that have a eerily gothic feel to them. Walking across the bridge might make you think of the billions (trillions, gazillions) of pedestrians that have walked across this monument for over 125 years. On a summer night, with a red sky, the lights of Brooklyn and Manhattan scream out at you. So don't just walk it during the day.
The only downside to the bridge is the quantity of tourists. If you're on a bike, the tourists are usually the ones taking pictures and haphazardly and recklessly stepping into the bikeline. The first time we did it, our vocal cords had a real workout -- a different form of road rage. But if you got a bell on your bike, or you're willing to ride slow, it's a nice ride, and you don't get the subway noise that you get on the Manhattan Bridge, which is only a short hop away.
The only downside to the bridge is the quantity of tourists. If you're on a bike, the tourists are usually the ones taking pictures and haphazardly and recklessly stepping into the bikeline. The first time we did it, our vocal cords had a real workout -- a different form of road rage. But if you got a bell on your bike, or you're willing to ride slow, it's a nice ride, and you don't get the subway noise that you get on the Manhattan Bridge, which is only a short hop away.
CARSTEN HOLLER EXHIBIT, New Museum, Bowery
The Carsten Holler exhibit at the New Museum, called an "Experience." Officially an "experience" for almost $18 a person. Carsten Holler was a scientist who experimented with sensory perception for years, so naturally the exhibit was about how we see, feel and think about things. Put your feet in burlap bags and go down a slide through 2-floors of the museum without knowing where or how you will end up. Wear upside down goggles and try to walk around examining people's feet on the ceiling and mushrooms hovering underneath. Flashing lights, patterns, sculptures and a clandestine sensory pool (that was closed during our visit).
BROOKLYN BOTANIC GARDEN, Prospect Park
The Japanese tea garden, the cherry blossoms, the bonsais. With a full-year membership to the garden, it is hard to pass up. You can see the trees in every season, including the colors, the smells, and the blooms. You can discover native East Coast plants, step into a Rose Garden, Rock Garden and Shakespeare Garden! There is also a fabulous Conservatory and a better-than-average gift shop.
But best of all, ride your bike through Prospect Park to get there, and hop to a bar in Prospect Heights to finish the evening with a savory, floral beer.
But best of all, ride your bike through Prospect Park to get there, and hop to a bar in Prospect Heights to finish the evening with a savory, floral beer.
ALVIN AILEY DANCE THEATER, Midtown
Back in December, Ami and I went with Joe and Mariel to see Alvin Ailey dancers. It was an amazing show. The last time I had seen Alvin Ailey was back in 1998 in Berkeley, California. This time in New York, we saw the performances Home, Love Stories, Forgotten Time and In/Side. You could potentially get tickets to different nights and see all the performances, some old, some new, with different choreographers, but the same Alvin Ailey style. Beyond their incredibly toned and visually powerful bodies, they have an overpowering grace and sleekness that leaves you awestruck. And their diversity in movement shows their unrivaled talent and mastering of the body's natural energy and motion.
This March, we went to see the amateur Alvin Ailey performers do a show. These are the dancers who take classes at the Alvin Ailey performance center in Midtown Manhattan and put on a performance after 6 weeks of practice. Our friend Mariel performed a very cute and sassy jazz gig (she looked fantastic on stage). There is some real talent out there, and beautiful performers of all shapes, colors, and sizes. It made me want to dance again.
This March, we went to see the amateur Alvin Ailey performers do a show. These are the dancers who take classes at the Alvin Ailey performance center in Midtown Manhattan and put on a performance after 6 weeks of practice. Our friend Mariel performed a very cute and sassy jazz gig (she looked fantastic on stage). There is some real talent out there, and beautiful performers of all shapes, colors, and sizes. It made me want to dance again.
LADY BUNNY, La Escuelita Theater, Times Square
If you want a raunchy good time, this is it. Lady Bunny is one of the best drag performers we've seen. She's hip, full of energy, with a dirty mouth, an attitude and fabulous legs. She sings versions of pop songs for over an hour, non-stop, blending in irreverent humor and occasional social commentary. And her ginormous bouffant never moves. But that semi-formal review is not too much for Lady Bunny. Her show was written up in the NYT, which no doubt contributed to its lengthy open-ended run at La Escuelita in Times Square. After the performance our jaws hurt from laughing so hard. Then we smiled to no-end when we got a hug with Ms. Bunny herself!
LUCKY CHENG'S, Lower East Side
An evening of food, vulgarity and transitory identity. Plus drinks, laughter and embarrassment for all involved (except the queens of course). This East Village hub is known for its beautiful ladies with sassy tongues and just the right pizazz. The food is half-decent Asian fusion, but most go to hear music or celebrate their anti-prudishness. Drinks are strong. Word of advice: do not go with anyone that you couldn't watch the movie "Dirty Dancing" with.
BIG TERRIFIC FREE COMEDY SHOW, Williamsburg
Every Wednesday night, a small venue called Cameo, nestled in the back of a cafe in Williamsburg, hosts a free comedy show for 90 minutes. While you never know who you're gonna get, the likelihood is that you'll see someone funny. And you might even see someone famous. From deadpan humor, post-Modern rants, arrogant self-aggrandizement, to dorky self-deprecation, you'll get a wide variety of comics at a low, i.e., free price. The bartender in the back makes strong drinks, which makes everything a bit funnier. Oh, and this is where we met a very funny local comedian Kate Berlant.
EXPLORING DUMBO, Brooklyn
Dumbo stands for Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass, not a flying elephant. This area is nestled under the Manhattan and Brooklyn bridges' skylines, surrounded by crisp East Coast water and old warehouses and factories. We explored on Super Bowl Sunday, which meant it was quiet, eerily spooky, yet beautiful. We were enchanted by the possibility of going on a date at the River Cafe (with a fixed price menu at $100 probably will never happen)-- though could explore Barge Music. We splurged at the candy shop and stumbled over the Belgian block stone roads. Our best experience was coming across reBAR, what looked like an unassuming dive bar was a spacious beer-filled bar/restaurant/art gallery, with 4 separate rooms. Since it was Super Bowl Sunday, we got free dinner. Whoa.
BROOKLYN MUSEUM, First Saturdays with Dance Party (Free!)
The Brooklyn Museum is by far one of the most unpretentious and interesting museums in all of New York so far. The first Saturday of every month you can go for FREE, and enjoy poetry, music, a book club, a full-on dance party, and best of all, the exhibits. The exhibits are creatively arranged and intelligently described. Our favorites were the Dinner Party by Judy Chicago, Ancient Egyptian art (including cat mummies!), Playing House (the restored houses on display for their period rooms), and the Visible Storage Study Center. When you're done exploring the exhibits, you can grab a beer and dance. Oh, the other plus: very integrated, and lots of eye candy.
Update: We went back in July to see the Keith Haring exhibit. Fantastic.
Update: We went back in July to see the Keith Haring exhibit. Fantastic.
ELLIS ISLAND, By Ferry, Battery Park
Skip the statue of liberty, and take the ferry to spend the day at the Ellis Island museum. First of all, it's free, which is pretty amazing. The museum is full of NY history, artifacts, photos, and news clips documenting the immigrant experience. Of course it's a museum so it has it's limitations, but overall, there is a lot to choose from, and it's educational. Most of the personal genealogical studies can be done online from your own computer these days.
Fyi, if you know you want to go and when, it's best to buy tickets in advance online. The line to get onto the ferry is pretty outrageous, and more invasive than airport security.
Fyi, if you know you want to go and when, it's best to buy tickets in advance online. The line to get onto the ferry is pretty outrageous, and more invasive than airport security.
FUERZA BRUTA SHOW, Union Square
I (Ami) saw this show many years ago (maybe 2002?) on one of my visits to NYC. My Paisan took me to see it and I loved it. Especially since it was in the middle of summer and you can pretty much plan on getting wet. It has become much more sophisticated but it's still a good time with many visual and aural enticements to get your blood flowing. The show is a strange somewhat interactive performance with no acting, but lots of movement, shouting and dance. A man on a treadmill, flying boxes, and acrobats. Beautiful women in bathing suits sliding across a giant pool/slip-and-slide lowered from the ceiling to mere inches above your head making for a very intimate experience. Downsides? No seats, you stand the entire show, which lends to the atmosphere and potentially leads to an impromptu dance party. Also, if you have neck problems, I wouldn't recommend going because you'll be looking up the entire time. The tickets are expensive so don't pay full price. Go standby or get a Groupon deal to make it more affordable.
BROOKLYN BREWERY, Williamsburg
We went to the Brooklyn Brewery on a Sunday afternoon for one of their free tours. Though it's not much of a tour, but really a guy telling stories about how the Brewery started up, it's still interesting. You can stick around and drink beer and chow down on pulled-pork sandwiches, pupusas and more offered by local vendors. Also, buy some beer tokens when you get in to enjoy some Brooklyn brew straight from the source...well...sort of. There's plenty of sitting room and I noticed people with piles of tokens playing cards and hanging out so you could easily make a day of it. In any case, if you live in Brooklyn and you like beer, you kind of have to go.
SILENCE THE MUSICAL, East Village
We went for Ami's birthday. Neither of us had high expectations as far as entertainment level but our sides hurt from laughing afterwards. In case you didn't know...it's a musical parody comedy based on Silence of the Lambs! If you have a macabre/crass/crude sense of humor, (or if you love or hate Silence of the Lambs) this show is for you. One thing that is really impressive about these smaller budgeted productions is how much they are able to do with so little. It's fantastically done: the actors are all professional with great dancers and singers. The main character, Agent Sterling, does an uncanny impersonation of Jodie Foster's speaking with a lisp. The actor who played Dr. Hannibal Lechter looked like Anthony Hopkins, nailed the accent and the demeanor. Plus the guy who plays Buffalo Bill does a real tuck under his robe, and shows all! Memorable scenes from the original flick are well-represented; the mocking songs and dances will have you nearly rolling in the aisles. Plus, wine and beer is available for purchase outside the door. (note: There's no intermission so use the loo beforehand!)
THE HIGH LINE, Chelsea
This "park" runs along the lower west side of Manhattan, a transformed greenway that runs along a former elevated railroad track. The train used to transform meat and supplies to the various factories that now make up the "Meatpacking District" but now the High Line doesn't have the rugged, proletarian feel at all. Instead, it is a mixture of perfected landscaping, architecture, installations and river and street views. It's great for photographing at dusk, too. You can explore Chelsea Market for some goodies or fine dining before or after. Or, better yet, start at the southern end and reward yourself at the end at Hill's Country Fried Chicken on 25th in South Midtown.
CITY ISLAND, The Bronx
Ok, the disclaimer is that this is probably not like the movie of the same name, and not an escape from NY the way "escapes" are in California (i.e., real). City Island is a kind of bizarre little town away from the Bronx, nearly inaccessible by public transit (though not impossible), with a slew of seafood restaurants, antique stores and suburban houses. The town itself is a bit depressed and there is no real "beach" to speak of. We didn't rent boats, but that's supposed to be the best part. Instead, we walked and explored, then drove home across the bridges of NY in a (borrowed) mini Cooper, probably the best thrill of the visit. Still, it can turn into a nice day trip if you don't have too high of expectations.
BROOKLYN BANYA, Kensington
This is a crazy and wonderful place that is a gem for relaxation and food. Best of all, it is a 10 minute walk from our house. This Turkish/Russian bathhouse is completely unassuming and bland from the exterior, but totally magical inside. After changing into a bathing suit, you can limp away your muscles and sweat in the saunas, steam rooms and pools, all while enjoying amazing home-cooked Russian meals and beer (!). On warmer nights, there is even a rooftop deck to cool down. And if you're lucky enough to be sharing a sauna with a older Russian man with birch leaves, take advantage of a beating (it's good for circulation). Don't miss the lamb stew, warm lavash bread and borscht. The staff is very laid back (and funny) and the crowd is always mellow.
GOVERNOR'S ISLAND, From Pier 6
Open during the summer and early fall, Governor's Island is a tiny land mass with an interesting history, but which is now ideal for a bike ride and a picnic. Take the FREE 5-minute ferry from Brooklyn to the island (already a plus) with your bike and travel the 2.2 mile perimeter. There are spectacular views of both downtown Brooklyn and Manhattan, as well as the Statue of Liberty and the ports. At picnic point, there are huge sculptures, hammocks and places to drink beer and "chillax" and you will not feel like you are anywhere near the city.
FORT GREENE PARK, Fort Greene
This is a very cool 30-acre park that's great for a run, a walk or a lesson in plant and tree identification. There is a cool monument from the time of the American Revolution, and lots of hills and stairs that make for a nice outing or an escape for reading. Best of all, you can explore Fort Greene and get dinner at a nearby restaurant as we did, and we highly recommend it. Madiba South African cuisine.
NEW YORK TRANSIT MUSEUM, Borough Hall
This is a super cool museum that's worth a visit and can be done in less than 2 hours. The transit museum takes you on a ride through the history of the subway. With awe, you can explore old subway cars and enter a time warp. You can read about the history of the transit union, the intense, arduous labor that built the tunnels and trains, and the bureaucracy that keeps it all running. Study old maps and see how neighborhoods in different boroughs developed as they were connected by rail. It will make you feel bigger and more knowledgeable about the trains you have grown to depend on in the city.
THE MOTH STORYTELLING (Live), Various Venues
If you like storytelling and you haven't heard the Moth podcast, you are missing out. And if you haven't seen Moth live in NYC, you're also missing out. Both of us have listened to the Moth for the last few years and always dreamed of hearing the storytellers in person. Every week or so, the Moth broadcasts live at various locales around New York City, mostly with cheap tickets. Luckily, we ended up waiting outside the "sold out" Moth GrandSlam event for tickets at the High Line Ballroom and we got in! Dan Kennedy was hosting, and we heard ten very creative, smart and often touching stories. A very good way to spend a special date with a special someone....or simply be inspired to tell tales and write.
NITEHAWK CINEMA, Williamsburg
This is a seriously cool place for a date. Nitehawk cinema is a movie theater/dinner/bar where you can watch a movie, eat a fabulous meal, and guzzle a cocktail all at the same time. Sit in comfortable seats, watch clips of movies (no stupid ads), get served by a waiter, and then chow down while crying, laughing or yawning during the screening of a movie. Check out their showings for some of the classic films you wanna see on the big screen again.
CONEY ISLAND, Brooklyn
This is not the best beach in New York. In fact, it's crowded and dirty in the summer. Still, it's a piece of New York, and it's kind of a must-see. In the fall, the boardwalk is empty, populated by old Russians and kids skipping school. But between May and August, there are people from all walks of life ordering hot dogs and playing music and buying tickets for the rides at Luna Park. The cluttered nature of it makes it a bad getaway, but a good place to catch the sun, gawk at tourists and Brooklynites, and feel at one with the cheesiness.
NUYORICAN POETS CAFE, Lower East Side
Ever since I got a poetry book from this cafe over a decade ago, I have wanted to visit. Don't worry if you're not "into" slam poetry. The experience on Friday Night Poetry Slam is worth it for any crowd. The MC will make you laugh all night. The poets, with varying degrees of talent and style, will impress or touch you sentimentally. The Nuyorican is a must-visit in NYC, a bastion of art, writing and hip-hop, and it's where Saul Williams got crowned Slammaster. If you plan to go, get there at least an hour early to be guaranteed a seat. The place is tiny!
BROOKLYN FLEA MARKET, Williamsburg
This fleamarket on Sundays in Williamsburg is termed "Smorgasboard" because it used to be mostly food stands. Though you can still pick up a fantastic kimchi taco or $4 donut (overrated), the best part is perusing through the furniture, vintage clothes, jewelry, and occasional junk stand. What's more, the flea is located on the East River, with striking views of Manhattan. It's a great bike ride on a sunny Sunday. Plus, if you're on your bike, you are prevented from buying too much stuff that you don't need or can't afford!
MUSEUM OF SEX, Flatiron
This is not the best museum of sex we've ever been to (omg! how many are there??), but it has to get credit for existing and for trying. And yes, it is educational if you let it be. Particularly check out the top floor which gives you a keen sense of the fascinating world of animal mating, with summary exposes of rare monogamous species and mating rituals. The downstairs area details sex in film, and another floor boasts art with fantasy and history, including a whole section on the internet. And don't forget to stop off in the basement cafe where you can buy fancy sexy drinks. The gift store isn't bad either, but still slightly pricy.
DI FARA PIZZA, Brooklyn
DiFara's pizzeria is off Avenue J in Midwood (down the street from my eye doctor) and is considered to be the BEST pizza in all of New York. This is old school. A family-run joint for over 50 years. They don't deliver, so you have to show up, wait in line (usually long) place your order, and then wait another hour. Cash only. All fresh ingredients. Mr. DeMarco (who looks about 80) uses a combination of fresh and canned San Marzano tomatoes for the sauce and a combination of regular mozzarella and fresh buffalo mozzarella imported from Italy with fresh savory basil. The thin crust pizzas come out with coal-oven crispiness. The place is expensive, and it's definitely a trek. But given NYC is known for pizza, you have to give in to the experience at least once.
BOATEL, Rockaway Beach
Boatel is an artists' creation in the Rockaways, far enough away so you can feel you're "outside" of New York (though it's less than an hour driving). Dozens of abandoned boats in Marina 59 have been transformed into overnight sleeping boats, with a common deck for partying and lounging. There's not much to do besides playing games, drinking, chatting, and sleeping. The bathrooms are a 4-minute walk on ground, and you have to bring all your own amenities, including music and bedding. So in that way, it's sort of like camping, but in a funky, fishy and New York kind of way. Great to do with another couple. We did it in fall, and would definitely recommend staying when the weather is mild. Not good for summer heat!